Austria, when I think about you so many amazing things come
to mind, The Sound of Music, strudel, schnitzel, cool feather hats, big
mountains, yodelling, Mozart, Einstein and of course Freud (not sure if
amazing, or just intriguing). With all of these good things going for it, it
was only natural that we would spend a little time here. Some things of course
were a little more appealing to certain parties in the group, no prizes for
guessing who was here for the Sound of Music, and who was here for the schnitzel
– of course we were both here for the strudel and yodelling.
We took the overnight train from Krakow, on
this night we slept in style going first class private cabin. You may ask,
aren’t you meant to be budget conscious? The answer is yes, however this little
budget burner came from us leaving its booking to the last minute and nothing
and we mean nothing else was available. Is it worth the money? Hmm in our
opinion no, but it definitely was the nicest way to travel so far, and on a not
so budget conscious trip it would be the way to go.
Salzburg
Simon doesn’t sleep well on the trains, however Amy can
sleep though the apocalypse so arriving in Vienna things are not shaping up
well for Simon. We search for a train to Salzburg and find one leaving in about
2 minutes, we run to the platform and find ourselves a seat. The great thing
about trains here is you can pay on board, and this train had free wi-fi. By
9:10am we are in Salzburg, and had finally figured out where we are going in
Eastern Europe and booked a few nights, all things considered it was a
productive train ride. We find our hotel, dump our things and get on our way,
we have the whole of Salzburg to explore in a day, and Simon can’t keep his
eyes open.
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| The face of a man in desperate need of sleep thanks to the overnight train |
Narrowly missing a free walking tour of the city, we go it
alone. We start at the Mirabella Gardens where the Do, Re, Mi song was filmed from the Sound of Music, while mostly
chained off for the winter, we saw the Pegasus fountains where the children
jumped all over and the steps from the very end of the song where there are
enough steps for each note.
We stumble upon some local markets, they are incredible and
very busy selling loads of cheese and meat, Austrian pastries, and of course
pretzels and wurst. We kept seeing these tubular pastry things everywhere
filled with something white. After seeing it at about 10 shops we decide to
give it a try, we have no idea what it’s called, and had no idea what this
white stuff was because it didn’t look like cream. We take a bite and wow,
imagine a round and hollowed out croissant, filled with soft, fluffy and airy
meringue. Sharing one was enough but it really was something, and looking
around it seems as though meringue is a big thing here.
We cross the river and enter the famous old town and it is
completely picturesque. Salzburg is the home of Mozart and is also famous for
Salt, Salzburg literally means the city of salt. As such both of these things
are everywhere!
Salzburg was in its day a very rich city, and was actually a
church owned independent state from Austria and was governed by bishops. We
wander staring at the magnificent buildings that still hold their old city
charm. We enjoyed some wonderful churches and cathedrals. We have said before
that we are nearly completely over seeing churches, but some are just so
incredible they still ‘get you’. These were different, somehow inside they were
‘softer’, loads of pastel colours, and dainty floral plaster work. All the
fountains were boarded up and covered for ‘winter’ because its not good if they
freeze – we don’t think there is any risk of this.
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| The old town |
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| St Peters Church |
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| Salzburgdom |
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| The intricate detail of inside the Salzburgdom |
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| Again, Salzburgdom, with some horses |
By lunchtime we both need a pick me up so we find a
supermarket and buy 75 cent energy drinks. This energy couldn’t have come at a
better time as we decide to go to the Fortress (Festung Hohensalzburg) which
sits on a hill overlooking Salzburg and the mountains. We head to the funicular
to get a ride up and decide in no way will we pay the 8 Euro each fee to get
up! So we perk up and hit the steps to get vertical. We are glad we took the
stairs because the view on the way up was gorgeous, and we had to burn off that
meringue pastry from this morning. This fortress built in 1077 has been home to
the prince-archbishops who ruled Salzburg. The fortress has the most wonderful
views over the city and the mountains.
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| The Austrians are big on marionettes, so Simon tried his hand at it at the museum |
The sun is setting, so we head down the hill – the funicular
is free on the way down. We walk back to the hotel through the stunning old
town, past the boutique shops, and Simon has two things on his mind – sleep and
strudel. On our walk we are peckish so we pick up some cold takeaway strudel
from a bakery, and it is delish.
We return to our hotel for a nap, and Simon is out from the
minute his head hits the pillow, and Amy is here writing this blog next to
sleeping beauty. His precise instructions were to wake him at 7pm as he really
wants to get out and get a schnitzel and a strudel. Its 6:49 he looks comfy and
I don’t want to be the one who wakes him, maybe I’ll get reception to do a
wakeup call… I love that even when he is completely exhausted schnitzel and
strudel still take priority.
Simon wakes and after research we walk 2km for a schnitzel,
strudel and Weiss bier. The pub is perfect, it has a traditional feel about it
and the waiters are in lederhosen. We order our Weiss bier and pork Wiener
schnitzel, it was divine accompanied by something similar to lingonberry jam
and we both agreed it was the best schnitzel we had ever eaten. The potatoes
were creamy and loaded with unnecessary butter and herbs, it was all amazing.
The strudel, was strudely and delicious.
When we get back home we do some research into where to get
the best strudel in Salzburg and what makes a good strudel and we come across a
travel blog similar to ours, except on this occasion this couple spent 8 days
in Salzburg just sampling and rating strudel. We didn’t have 8 days or a rating
scale, but we did decide to sample a fair bit of strudel as it seems to vary
everywhere you go. It can be served cold or hot, with accompaniments or none,
there are several acceptable accompaniments, whipped cream, ice cream or our
favourite vanilla sauce. You have to try it all.
This is the day Amy has been waiting for her entire life…
Simon has booked for us to do the Sound of Music tour. We jump on the big bus
painted with all the characters, just to ensure that all the passers-by knew we
were tourists. We have a lively guide, who greeted us with “G’day mate, and
would you like some vegemite” in the worst attempt at an Aussie accent, we
cringe inside and manage a small smile. After 4 months on the road we really
hate the Aussie stereotype and would be happy just to be greeted with a
welcome.
Unfortunately Nonnberg Abbey is off limits to visitors (the
main abbey where Maria is a nun). So we start our journey at Leopoldskron
Palace, where the gardens of the movie Von Trapp house were filmed, and of
course the famous lake where they are rowing and they all fall into the water.
The actual house that you see is in another location which we drove past – but
it is private so no stopping. Next we head to the Hellbrunn Gazebo, the
original from the movie where Ralph and Liesl sing the 16 going on 17 song. You
can’t go inside because an 80 year old woman was jumping around re-enacting the
original scene and she broke her hip, so unfortunately there was no dancing
around in the original gazebo for us…
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| The lake and the house whos garden they used. |
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| The Von Trapp home from the movie |
We start making a climb up into the beautiful mountains with
the soundtrack playing, going past lakes that should at this time of year be
frozen and seeing a little covering of white powder of the top of these giant
mountains. It was beautiful, and made the tour even more worthwhile (see selfie at end for the view!). We stop in
a little town to look at the Mondsee Church – the church where Maria and
Captain Von Trapp are married in the movie. This stop was also the opportunity
for everyone to eat strudel, but apparently the best place was closed. None the
less we were pointed in the direction of another delicious strudel experience.
In the start of the movie when Maria is up on the Mellweg mountain
she realises she is late and runs down and back to the Nonnnberg Abbey in
around 3 minutes. In reality this mountain is over 10kms away from the Abbey.
This is only one of the many inaccuracies that make the Germans and Austrians
so uninterested in this film. In fact the real Maria was paid nearly a million
US dollars 50 years ago to silence her personal protest about the inaccuracies
of the Hollywood film. We were also told more about the actual story of the
real von Trapps and it’s very different to the movie but we won’t say anything
to ruin the great movie. Although here is a fun fact in reality the Von Trapps
re-settled in Vermont bought a lodge that you can now stay at for around 17,000
US $ a week.
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| Amy singing along with the Von Trapps |
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| Simon playing the role of Ralph wanting to give Liesl her first kiss, after all she is 16 going on 17. |
We take the quick way back on the Autobahn and arrive in
Salzburg for a few more hours until our train to Vienna. We go to where the
best views are meant to be and head to the museum of modern art up a cliff. We
enjoy the amazing views, and take our time wandering down ad once again through
the beautiful old town.
Salzburg is a small town of only about 150,000 people, but
you would never know. You could easily spend several days here, as you could a
lot of places we have been, there are plenty of museums and things to explore.
It is clear to see why some people say that it is one of the most beautiful
cities in Europe, and is regal in appearance.
Again we can’t help feeling completely gutted that there is
no snow, when the city should be covered in it. It doesn’t help that every tourist
shop is selling postcards with magnificent photos of a stunning city coloured
gloriously white with snow.
Vienna
There is no shortage of things to do or see in Vienna, the
only thing stopping you would be a shortage of funds. Whether it be the famous
opera here which will set you back a few hundred euros, the theatre, going to a
Viennese ball or heading out to see the worlds famous Vienna symphony
orchestra. But when you boast some of the best night options, unfortunately you
can price accordingly, setting us pretty much out of the market on most of the big
things to do at night. Vienna is also pricey on some of the must see things,
whether it be the lavish palaces and multiple art galleries housing some of the
biggest names. With this in mind we changed up our usual approach and tried
something a little more laid back.
Given that Vienna is just 60 minutes from Bratislava it gave
us the opportunity to catch up with one of Amys friends Michaela from Aus who
is now living back in her home country of Slovakia. Michaela and her husband
Andy met us in Vienna, and we explored this beautiful city together. Although
being just over the border they never visit, so it was an experience for
everyone.
They arrive in the early afternoon and we walk to the naschmarkt,
a very big and famous food market in Vienna, which on a Saturday also hosts a
flea market. To appease Simons need for Schnitzel we find a place with
‘reasonable’ prices and enjoy more schnitzel and kartoffelsalat while catching
up on the last 5 years.
We leisurely wander the city, chatting and gazing, starting
our walk at Hofburg palace, we head towards Stephansdom (St Stephens cathedral)
whose gothic spire governs the cityscape, with the most incredible mosaic tiled
roof.
We find the first café on our list, café hawelka and luckily
get a table for the four of us as it was crowded. The room is dark wood
panelled with old New Yorker newspaper cartoons and handwritten menus on the
walls. The air is grey with smoke and the place is dim but the ambience is
lively with people talking, reading, eating and drinking merrily. Asking for a
menu we get the reply that they don’t have menus and he rattles off a quick
list of two strudels and two cakes. We order Viennese coffees with apple
strudel and cheese strudel. The coffees were great with the espresso being a
milder blend to make the cream combination deliciously smooth. The strudels
were tasty but apple is our preference. The conversation was flowing as we
chilled in what would be our favourite coffee shop.
After our indoor indulgence we get outside to see more of
Vienna. There is a tourist tram that circles the inner city and follows the old
city walls location. When the walls were torn down the Austrians built a grand
boulevard to place their mighty establishments on such as parliament, Veinna
state opera, university of Vienna, Vienna town hall, and the stunning Votive
church. The tram was a really good way to get a 30 minute snapshot of some of
the best architecture in Vienna and hear about what all the buildings
originally were and are now.
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| Seriously impressive town hall |
After the tram we repeated most of the circuit on foot to
take in the structures more closely and get some photos. They really looked
spectacular lit up at night. The stores that line the boulevard are superb with
some great designer stores for furniture, and Simon was particularly attracted
to some of the innovative bike stores. The Votive church was still open and we
walked inside to a completely empty huge church, it was completely perfect as
it was just ours to explore this amazing space.
After our long walk and working up a moderate appetite Simon
walked the group to a restaurant famous for their large schnitzels and
traditional food. The line was almost out the door so we went around the corner
to their other site but the situation was the same. Briefly we considered going
back to Slovakia for dinner but after asking the waiter about the wait time we
got a table after 20 minutes. The boys opted for the big schnitzel and the
ladies ordered other traditional dishes. The food was marvellous and the
company even better. We left thoroughly full and walked back to our hotel.
Sadly we had to part ways here for Andy and Micha to head
home. We had a fantastic day out with them and really enjoyed exploring Vienna
together, we hope of course that it will not be another 5 years until we see
them again in either Slovakia or Australia.
Some of you may know that Vienna is equally well known for
its coffee houses which sell divine tortes, Viennese coffee, apple strudel etc.
So on the second day we decided we would stroll around the city and work our
way around some of the best of the Viennese cafes sampling their wares. This is
completely acceptable given its reputation right?
Our day starts heading to the Schonbrunn palace. On our way
we walk past a place boasting about its apple strudel, we have not yet eaten
breakfast so why not share one? We walk in and the place is gorgeous, the
waiters are in tuxedos and we take a seat in this pricey café. We order the
warm apple strudel with vanilla sauce (custard), it arrives and it looks divine
lots of apple, cinnamon and raisins and a bowl filled with custard. We take a
bite, and instantly we know we’ve found it, we have found the game changing
strudel. The pastry is crisp, the filling hearty with plenty of flavour, the
custard is thick and tastes of sweet vanilla. Our eyes light up, and then close
to enjoy the moment, there is silence at the table.
We were unsure about going to yet another palace, because we
have seen a lot of palaces and castles it’s hard to absorb any longer. For all their opulence, it can all just blend
together after a while. Over 3 million tourists head to this sight every year,
so why not we thought, we bit our lip hard and purchased the most expensive
option with a guided tour. We did this because if we were going to do another
palace, we wanted the history and we wanted to really understand rather than
just wander it looking at things. We are glad we did, because not only was the
palace gorgeous we really got a good understanding of Austria’s complex
history, its empire and the days of being one of the dominant global forces.
Then the lead into WW1 and the end of the Austrian Monarch. Austria truly has
an interesting history, and it became easy to understand why it’s such a
melting pot of cultures, and why so much of Austrian food and culture is
influenced by many of the countries it occupied. The garden is magnificent and
is free all year round. Unfortunately at this time of year the flowers are not
in bloom, so it is much more stunning in the summer – a little like what we
said of Versailles. The Vienna zoo is also on the palace grounds (its easy to
understand when the grounds are the size of Monaco – no joke). This zoo is meant
to be the best in Europe, but alas our time does not permit a day at the zoo
with the pandas.
After the palace it is mid afternoon and we make our way to
the city to find the Café Sacher, its Sacher torte is extremely reputable, this
is evidenced by the line out the door. After a short wait, we get a table in
this high end café, but there is little ambiance. It is all about get in, eat
and then either eat or drink something else or get out. The torte was nice, but
we had nothing to compare it to, their strudel was also nice but not as good as
the mornings, and the environment while posh was so uninviting that it took
away from the experience.
We wander to a different part of town window shopping the
back street boutiques and come to our next stop, this cute little café is
nestled away where only the locals know about it, but alas it is full – we are
sure for good reason, so we head on our way.
We arrive at the a very traditional Viennese café Pruckel open
for over 100 years which looks like it hasn’t changed since the 50’s, giving is
a pretty cool charm. The menu has all the Austrian and Viennese favourites and
the waiters are dressed in tuxedos (this is a thing here). Again it is jam
packed in here, but whilst we wait we stare at the cake cabinet that will squash
any diet. This café is very relaxed with most locals settled in with some Sunday
reading, a good place to just chill. We order two things that we can’t
pronounce from the cake cabinet and 2 Viennese ice coffees. Our eyes were
clearly bigger than our stomachs as we could not finish our purchase.
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| At least we get admin tasks done while eating our cake and Viennese coffee... |
Completely full, ironically we head off to Hungary,
promising not to eat for at least a day…
Lessons learnt
- Don’t leave purchasing transport to the very last minute, book early where possible!
- A good schnitzel and strudel is one of life’s simple joys, in fact strudel is an acceptable breakfast option.
- Austrian history is pretty epic.
- Taking an overnight train is nicer in one’s own private cabin – but at the end of the day you’re still on a train and that’s not always comfy.
- Austria is one of the rare places that still has smoking/non-smoking sections of places or just outright indoor smoking. This can make some places quite unpleasant to eat or visit. Check on the door before eating somewhere to see if they allow smoking, or just walk in because you can smell instantly.
- Viennese coffees are incredible.
Parting thoughts
Austria is well worth a visit, its mountains are glorious,
we imagine too is its countryside. The country is so steeped in history, and
both Vienna and Salzburg were both rich and have the amazing architecture that
shows off its status as a once world leader. It’s pricey – like the rest of
Western Europe, but if Vienna gets too pricey Bratislava the capital of
Slovakia is just 60 minutes away so head there for some cheapness, with a meal apparently
costing about 4 Euros. We think 3 days in Salzburg and 4 days in Vienna would
be perfect, but next time for us it will be to the mountains to make sure that
the hills are still alive with the sound of music.
- The highlight of Salzburg for us was the scenery and countryside we saw on the Sound of Music tour, and the schnitzel on our first night. The Viennese highlight was catching up with friends and just taking in all the beautiful buildings – that warm strudel was pretty amazing too.
- There is absolutely nothing healthy about an Austrian diet, nor is it particularly gourmet, it’s just hearty. This being said there is something so unbelievably tasty and satisfying about their food, it’s like comfort food all year round.
- We found a lot of similarities between Germany and Austria, the Austrians speak Deutsche as do the Germans – although the Germans would say that they butcher their language. There is schnitzel, wurst and beir. The pubs look similar, and they also do Drindle and Lederhosen, and enjoy big bier halls.
- We completely forgot to try schnapps which is a little disappointing, but it’s not like we can’t find it at home.
- We loved that we saw people wearing Austrian hats – you know the ones that they stereotypically wear while they are climbing a mountain and yodelling. We heard no yodelling, but we saw quite a few of the hats, and it made us smile.
- We feel like Austria is Germanys older brother, it’s been around longer, seen it all before and is much more relaxed and mature (we also don’t know if we are going to get into trouble for writing this point…)
- Austria like a lot of countries in Europe still allows smoking indoors, something that we can’t quite grasp.
- It’s the home of Mozart and they don’t let you forget it. There is his face everywhere across Vienna and Salzburg, there are Mozart balls which are special Austrian candy just for Mozart. We did not go to the Mozart memorial or his grave in Vienna, but we would have like to have time to see the Mozart museum in Salzburg but we are OK with just enjoying his life’s work.
Simon and Amy xoxo
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