Zbogom Montenegro

This post will likely take the prize for the shortest post from our blog. No need for a cup of tea on this one – Mum, I know you already have one. 

We had been looking forward to Montenegro for a while, specifically the Bay of Kotor which we had seen spectacular pictures of. It is on the coast so we were hopeful for a patch of sunshine and the dose of Vitamin D our bodies so desperately need. 

On the bus into Montenegro, the weather was sublime blue skies, sunshine and the scenery, oh the scenery. We travelled around the big bay, absolutely transfixed on these massive mountains that had sheer drops into brilliant blue water. It was possibly one of the most beautiful places we have seen. We have absolutely no photos because at the time our jaw was too busy falling to the floor than remembering to pick up the camera and capture this moment. Have you ever been somewhere so beautiful you can’t help question whether it is even real? Well that is the feeling you get driving around the bay. We could only imagine what it must be like for those who arrive by cruise ship into the bay. 

View from the Fortress - but this helps you understand what we drove into

Walking into the old town it is charming, and with the winding cobblestone streets we got completely lost and circled and circled until finally finding our apartment. 

Thankfully we had sunshine on the day of our entry because this would be the only day, it rained constantly leaving us mostly bound to our room, a café or a wine bar, and taking Vit D supplements. This wasn’t all bad because it meant we got a heck of a lot of planning done, two weeks in Turkey booked, and the rest of Eastern Europe squared away, as well as catching up on all our favourite shows and enjoying sleep ins. 

We had originally booked 3 nights and then the plan was to go to Macedonia, but the transport options are so tricky here, and everything takes a long and convoluted way so we decided it was more hassle and money than it may be worth. The weather forecast showed that the weather was to improve to sunshine so we decided to stay in Kotor a few more nights. We were to discover that the forecast was wrong and it continued to rain. 

There were 5 things that we wanted to do while based in the bay. 1. Explore the old town 2. See Sveti Stefan (private island on the coast) 3. Climb the 1350 step fortress above the city 4. Go to the Perast and explore Gospa and Skrpjela Islands and 5. Lovcen National Park. We managed 4 of these, although due to the weather it wasn’t quite the experience we had hoped. 

Kotor Old Town – we were based in the old town so it was easy to explore, little boutique shops, cobbled streets, large open squares, churches, and overpriced tourist restaurants. It was gorgeous but low season meant it lacked a vibe that the summer would bring.

The perimeter wall of the old town

Sveti Stefan – we held out believing that the rain would subside and on our last day it did. We caught an hour long bus up the coast and watched the sun glisten off the ocean out the window. The driver missed the stop and dropped us 1.5kms out of town, we then hiked up the freeway clinging to the side rail while trucks flew past us – it was an experience. Sveti Stefan itself is a private island where the cheapest accommodation is 600 Euro per night, you can’t go on the island unless you are a guest but for regular people just gazing at it with its terracotta rooves and brilliant turquoise water surrounding it from the shore is enough. We found a café at the top of the hill and basked in the sun and looked enviously onto this perfect island and a magnificent coast line. We headed down to the water and again missed our superb beaches at home. 

The Fortress – Governing the outside of the old town is the Fortress, it’s hard to imagine how much effort it would have been to build this thing over and in the mountains. The sun broke through finally giving us the opportunity to get up this thing. We hike the 1350 steps, which doesn’t feel too bad when stopping to enjoy the breathtaking view over the bay and old town. We go through the “high risk zone”, or so they say with loose rocks, sheer drops and into decaying stone buildings that are crumbling while crossing a completely rusted and gap filled bridge. It didn’t even matter it was so beautiful, and it was relatively tourist free. It took about 2.5 - 3 hours to get up and down and that was perfect because just as we made it to the bottom the rain came back with a vengeance. 

Perast – As you come around the bay out on the water are two man made islands, Gospa and Skrpjela. You can grab a water taxi out to them from Perast about 20 minutes up the road from Kotor. We made it to Perast with light rain and looked out at the gorgeous little islands but the weather was too bad to get out to them, so after taking 5 photos the rain poured down as we took shelter in a café. 

Lovcen National Park – Lovcen is meant to be one of Montenegro’s defining beauties and only a short way from Kotor, but this will have to wait for another time. It is basically out of action in the low season making it close to impossible to get to without hiring a private ride. 

Lessons Learnt

• Working in the hospitality industry allows you to smoke on the job, so along with the other customers’ smoke you can expect your waiter to also be partaking. 
• Apparently it’s still a mans world. Employment seems to be male dominated, and they seem to congregate in cafes sipping espresso and chain smoking. As a woman there are certain cafes where you almost feel uncomfortable because you are the only female and the men stare at you oddly in a way that makes you think there should be a sign on the door that says ‘men only’. Maybe there is an we just couldn’t read it.
• Weather forecasts are as unreliable here as they are at home
• Don’t be afraid to change plans, work with what you need at the time and what your gut is telling you to do.

Parting Thoughts

The Bay of Kotor is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful places we have ever seen and is a real gem of the Adriatic. Kotor is the perfect place to base yourself to discover all the Montenegro ‘must sees’.

Something we felt we missed in Montenegro was a real understanding of the culture and identity. We had some very cold and abrupt interactions, some very very bad coffee and some ordinary food. All of which was easily forgiven for the sight of the Bay and Sveti Stefan in the sun. 

If we went again we would go in the warmer weather and would take a cruise out through the bay to really soak in the magnificence, get out to Lovcen and Gospa and Skrpjela Islands.

Simon & Amy xoxo