Saturday, 22 October 2016

Japanese Odyssey Day 1 - Mt Haruna and Mt Kusatsu Shirane

Just a short ride to the start at the Nihonbashi bridge, the literal zero mile marker for Tokyo. Already there’s plenty of people there and portrait photos are being taken. The mood is light, jovial even as riders banter and talk gear, routes and about their expectations. I get my portrait taken and then resume quietly shitting myself. I put on a smile and a laugh but inwardly I’m pretty nervous, this is a big ride and whilst I am confident in my riding and going the distance I’ve never come close to something like this before.
Nihonbashi , wrapped up in mornin blue flame. Japanese odyssey 2016. On September 17,rock and roll 14days with 21 cyclists. not race,only ride in allover JAPAN. 今を去ること5日前、9月17日早朝、日本橋。 あろうことか私たちの日本の国土を舞台に、とある2人のフレンチマンサイクリストの悪しき企ての、サイが振られました。 Japanese odyssey 2016 企ての指に飛び付いた男たちは総勢21名。世界各地から集いしサイクル梁山泊どもです。ざんねんながら日本人はいません。 ともかく、朝駆けが常のサイクリスト、アクチャルスタートは午前5時。1時間以上も前にはすでにほとんどの参加者が集い、日本の道の原点、道路元標日本橋は、静かな青き炎に包まれます。 撮影押しにかこつけた日本人の嫌がらせで、スタートは延びましたが、日本各地に配された11のチェックポイントを、めいめいのルート設計を胸に走り出していきました。最果てのCPを目指し西に向かうもの、セオリー通り北へ向かうもの様々の後ろ姿は、いずれ違わぬ猛者のそれです。ちなみに11のCPは全て日本が誇る名山に設定され、登坂はUCIで言うところの、超級カテゴリです。 あの日から5日。ほとんどの参加者はすでに最難関の信州の山岳CPでドラゴンボールをゲット済み…、カンタンなコースだったのか? なわきゃない。 現在、多くのライダーは紀伊半島、そして四国に向かっています。まだ5日ですってのに。 遅ればせの写真は、青き梁山泊21名の肖像です。 #japaneseodyssey #farridemag #papersky #bikepacking #champsys #champsysintl #pelagobicycles #apidura
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We finally line up a little after the scheduled 5am start with the sun creeping up and slowly illuminating the quiet city around us. Photographers flashes peppering us and we’re all laughing because Stuart is pointing the other way with his “full value” odyssey mission taking him another direction to the rest of us.  Go is called and we’re away!


I turn right straight away, immediately separated from the pack after two metres. From yesterday’s ride I know I can follow this for 10km and be out on the riverside path. Everyone else seems to be going a slightly different way but the river paths are most people’s aim. Being 530am its pretty quiet in Tokyo and taking full advantage I run (carefully) every red light and jump every pedestrian crossing. Someone said at the start if you wait for every red light in Japan you’ll need 4 weeks for the ride and they weren’t wrong! I keep checking the side roads to see if I can see the other riders diverging away from me but I see no one and continue to the river.

After crossing a small bridge and rolling down to the river paths I settle into a rhythm and take a mental snapshot of where I am and what I am doing. Trying to “smell the roses” if you will. Sadly these rarely stick in my head but the feeling of an adventure ahead, the sun on your face and nothing to do but ride is exhilarating.

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The river is familiar after yesterday and pretty quiet, after a while I see three of the riders up the embankment and we exchange a shout and a wave, they’re coming down but I’m not waiting and press on. Eventually I find some local riders heading out of Tokyo on the trail, we don’t exchange words, they look at my setup and me with a slightly cocked head as if “wtf are you doing” but I tuck in behind them and they tow me a decent way out of town to where I need to turn off the paths and onto the road again.

The sun is warm and there’s a light wind to keep me cool, I’m snacking on Carmens bars I brought from home, my favourite riding snack. I’ve only got five though and after that there will be no more muesli bars so I space them out. Turning on to the main road I’m nearly out of water but it’s not concerning, there are conbinis (convenience stores) everywhere in Japan. Eventually I pull over at one and get some quick food and water, while refilling my bidons Daniel J rides past and I give him a yell, he spins around and come over for a chat. After he’s gone and I’m reloaded I make it my mission to chase him, setting small goals on a massive ride is important but I’m not going to pop myself doing so, riding within my set power threshold. Eventually I do catch him and we roll together for a bit before I pull away, he’s a seasoned rider and doesn’t chase me. Sensible.
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McDonalds for lunch, stopping for some A/C and food, the first of several stops like this where you get the slightly bemused looks of locals at the giant Gaijin (foreigner) in lycra and a loaded bike. I check the tracking site and see I’m in the top 3 currently, which means nothing, its 120km in and it’s not a race but it does feel good knowing I’m riding to plan and it’s going well.

From here we start to head uphill, I can see the mountains in the distance and they look big! First checkpoint for me is Mt Haruna, a volcanic mountain with a crater lake at the summit. In my planning I looked at the 3 main roads heading up to the summit and selected mine because it was shorter but a bit steeper, figuring I’m going to be in granny gear anyway might as well make it brief.
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On the way up I was looking for a conbini for some more water and riding food, there is always another I’d say to myself as I passed one each time. Finally when I was ready for one there were no more. I saw a woman getting out of her car in her driveway and I pulled up and asked in my best Japanese if there was a conbini ahead. She shook her head and pointed back down the road. Bugger! I thanked her and continued up the hill, about 2km later there was a small shop and I was able to reload water and get some snickers bars. They’d become my go to choc bar as pretty much the only recognisable label in the sweets section of conbinis.
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As I get to the final 4km of the ascent the gradient really ramps up, a volcano is bit like a convex line where it just keeps getting steeper til you reach the top. I was grateful for each and every tooth on my 36t granny ring on the back! Out of the saddle for some 20% pinches and constantly winding back and forth up the hill. I pass some casual riders on hybrid bike walking their bikes up not going much slower than I am but I’m determined to not walk.

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Finally I summit and the view below me is magnificent. In the crater is a glistening blue lake dotted with paddle and sail boats. A large swan boat (yes a boat with a huge swan shape) for taking tourists out on the water sits at the dock. Across the water I can see a huge chalet like building that wouldn’t be out of place in Austria. I smile and begin the short descent into the crater.



A photo posted by E W E N Y U 余悦 (@ewenkahryu) on


It’s cooler up here but not cold, the breeze of the descent brings some relief from the heat of the climb and I follow my garmins purple line to the checkpoint at the base of the chairlifts to the proper summit. I pass Tom riding the other way, he’s already been to the checkpoint. Riding around the lake there are tourist shops everywhere, 3 foot ice cream cones outside every shop indicating “soft cream” is available. Contemplating an ice cream I dismiss it and get to the checkpoint.

It’s a little exciting getting to CP1 and I get a selfie snap and head on. Riding out of the driveway I see Steven taking a picture next to the lake, deciding to say hello I pull over and we take pictures for each other.



In my morning haze I had forgotten to check my tyre pressure and deciding they could use a little air I pulled over at a bicycle hire shop and asked if I could borrow a pump. The man gives me an ancient looking floor pump and with one look at it I know it’s not going to fit my valves. I thank him and go to leave but he’s very insistent and attempts to fit this pump to my tyres without success and lets 60% of the air out in the process. I’m a bit frustrated but take the lesson to be more firm next time and get my frame pump out and re-inflate my tyre.

Climbing back up to the lip of the crater gives me a final view of this beautiful hole in the mountain before I stick my earbuds in, turn the music up and begin the descent off the volcano. Not knowing at the time but this would be one of the rare enjoyable descents of the whole ride. Wide roads, fast bends and my favourite tunes it was a real thrill. The next goal for the day was CP2, Mt Kusatsu-Shirane next to the onsen (hot springs) town of Kusatsu.

Geeting to the next CP I faced my first navigation challenge as the route I was on had a road closed and I needed to find a way around. Checking my garmin and phone and probably faffing a bit too much I found an alternate and got going again.


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The weather started to turn though with the clouds coming over first, then the first spatterings of rain. I pulled into a service station that I did not realise was roped off and nearly went straight into the rope, luckily seeing it at the last moment I braked hard and touched it with the front wheel before stopping. Near disaster averted I pulled on my rain jacket and Velotoze (shoe covers) and continued. 10 minutes later the skies opened and the heavy rain started. 

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CP2 had a closing time on the road which for some reason I thought was 8PM, I pushed hard passing a huge traffic backup of cars and trucks queueing to get into Kusatsu and burnt some matches getting up the mountain in the rain. Just as I got to the road gate they were dragging the barriers across! No! I pleaded, begged and explained with Google translate what was happening and that I absolutely needed to summit this mountain tonight. The warden was having none of it though and refused to let me past saying it would not re-open until 8AM tomorrow. I had banked on completing this CP today and booked accommodation in Kusatsu at the base of the mountain thinking I can just roll down to it after the CP. So I had two options, forfeit my accom and bivvy and the gate or roll back down 600m of vertical and stay in the accom. It didn’t take much convincing with the rain and a proper bed to go back down to Kusatsu.

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Plans already thwarted I checked into my hotel and did my routine which I had committed to memory for every sleep stop. Strip, wash, drink, stretch, eat, charge. Kusatsu is a bit like Daylesford, it’s a hot springs town and very popular with Japanese tourists. It was a long weekend too so the place was packed. I put on my walking around clothes and went out of the get dinner and have a looky look. I was stuck there til the checkpoint opened so may as well make the most of it.

Dinner at 7/11 and an Italian place followed up with chocolate milk and an ice cream filled the hole while I had a little walk, the centre of town in an open pool of the hot springs and the sulfuric tinged steam wafts through the whole town. It wasn’t overly unpleasant but it wasn’t great either. Japanese people were getting around in Onsen robes as you can go from one hot spring place to another easily and try different places. I’d love to go back for a lazy weekend soaking. Returning to my hotel I used their very “functional” (read: basic) onsen to have a hot soak and stretch.

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I should explain what an onsen is for anyone not familiar. Essentially it’s a Japanese bathing ritual. Separated into male and female rooms, you nude up and with a small modesty towel (which turns out is not strictly required) to cover your front you go and sit on a low stool and using either a bucket of water from the onsen pool or a shower you have a scrub on the stool and get clean and rinse off then get into the hot water pool and sit. I had this one all to myself but I’m not uncomfortable getting nude and bathing after our European experiences. Feeling pretty good I got to bed and listen to rain on the roof determined to be at the gate at 8am on the dot in the morning.

Annoyingly my data corrupted and didn’t record properly so some approximations:
Distance: 220km
Vert: 2800m
Calories: 7300

Normalised Power: 242 watts

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